A lot of guys have been asking me for some of the basics on menswear and styling, so I am going to be doing some short articles just to help with the basics. The main thing to keep in mind, is that the rules are meant to be broken, only when understood. Picasso was amazing as an abstract artist because he had proven himself through classical art. So you can change things up for comfort, for preference, even as direct defiance, just don’t do it because you didn’t know any better. 

Let’s start with my specialty, suits.

The most important part of a suit is the fit, which most people get wrong. You can have a cheap suit, but if it fits well it’s better than an overpriced one that fits like a potato sack, just ask the president. Once you’ve learned to get what fits you better then obviously it’s best to move up in quality so that your suits can 1-last longer and 2-function better. When you’re looking for the right fit in a suit the main thing to look for is the way it hugs your shoulders. If the suit is lying flat on the shoulders then you’re good to go, the rest of the suit can (within reason) be tailored but the shoulders have to be right. The next most important thing is the length. You want your sleeves to show about a quarter-inch of your dress shirt. More conservative gentlemen like their sleeves longer, some more flamboyant guys (particularly in Europe) like theirs shorter to show off their watch and bracelets. As with most parts of a suit, it’s about preference and personality. The same goes for the trousers, more conservative gentlemen like a full break, trendy hipster guys like no break to show off their colorful socks. My preference is a light break, I want you to see my socks or ankles when I’m sitting but not when I’m just standing around.

Here are a few rules that might seem basic, but I’ve seen plenty of people break so I’m gonna help you out here. Take the label off the sleeve, open up the pockets, remove the stitching on the lapels/cuffs/back vents. So these don’t apply to my suits since I make them custom, but when big companies are shipping their RTW suits they leave some things closed to help them keep their shape. Once you’ve purchased it though it’s best to free your suit of the contrasting white stitching because if you get called out on it you look like you were planning on wearing and returning the suit, even if that’s not the case. 

Don’ button the bottom button. This one is pretty straightforward but a lot of people never learn it. Are there exceptions to this rule? Sure, just like with any. I like to only button the bottom of a double-breasted jacket to give the lapel a deeper roll. But that’s something 99% of guys will never consider or have a suit that does, so just don’t button your bottom button. 

The two out of three pattern rule: Patterns are amazing, they add depth to menswear which is important because we don’t get to play with the silhouette as much as women do. Whether you’re into plaids, stripes, checks, polka dots, paisleys, or anything else, patterns serve as a way for men to express their individuality. A lot of phrases get thrown around, like not mixing dots and stripes. My rule is much more simple. Only have patterns on two of the three items. If you want to really play it safe you can let only one of the patterns be “loud”. So you can have a bold pattern on your suit, a toned-down pattern on your tie, and a solid shirt. Or a solid suit, a soft pattern on the shirt, and a bold pattern on the tie or pocket square, etc. 

Avoid trends: Don’t be afraid to look like a grown-up. It’s a suit, it’s a classic piece of timeless luxury. You can wear it to work or you can wear it to a wedding. If you stop and think about it your suits should be a part of who you are more than just your current age. When you’re 65 and retiring from being CEO of a billion-dollar company you don’t want to look back and see your pictures where your suit fits like a pair of black skinny jeans. I work with a lot of pro athletes and often they think they know what they want. In a few years once they’ve traveled more or moved to Europe they start asking for the things I suggested but they were scared to try. Pleats on the trousers, wider lapels, cuffs on the pants, lighter colors, suspender buttons, etc. 
There’s nothing wrong with the skinny fit of a trendy suit IF it compliments your body. Don’t get caught up in the fads only to look back in 30 years and realize they weren’t doing you any favors.

Consistency is key, so here’s how to dress for your body

Skinny ties were cool. I’m not talking about the mid-2000s, I mean over 50 years ago when the Beatles and the Rat Pack would sometimes wear skinny ties. They picked up again about 15 years ago and they’ve stayed a viable option, but it’s important to know that they aren’t for everyone or for every suit. I’m a big guy, I have pretty broad shoulders, and so a skinny tie can lead to a lot of white space, too much of my shirt showing makes me look like Chris Farley “big guy in a little jacket”. Wide suit lapels accent my frame better which is what a suit should do, and those wider lapels look better with wider ties. The rule of thumb here is to try to match your lapel width, with your shirt collar size, and your tie width. If you are a slender guy then narrow lapels, with a shorter collar and a skinny tie will look great on you. Look at Ben here, broad shoulders look great in wide lapels and a classic width tie.