I’ma let you finish but…

Kanye is the most impactful artist of all time!

Okay, that might sound a little crazy, but Kanye has always sounded a little crazy. And truth be told, he’s been the most impactful artist of MY life, and in my opinion of my entire generation.

I was 13 when The College Dropout came out, 14 for Late Registration, and 16 for Graduation. They say the music we listen to between these ages forms our music tastes for the rest of our lives, so if you’re my age then it makes sense that Kanye’s sounds were the soundtrack for those formative years. The thing is, Kanye has switched his sound time and again within these and all of his albums. Hell, the following year he released 808s & Heartbreak which was drastically different from his first three albums (I’ll touch more on that later). So it’s not necessarily that we fell in love with that sound, I mean we did, but more than that it has always been about his message and voice. Kanye’s influence started years before that when he changed the game by changing the sound of mainstream hip-hop by incorporating soul samples. He made some of the most iconic beats in hip-hop history and redefined the mainstream. When he wanted to make the move to rapping he had to redefine the sound even further. He narrated the constant struggle of being told that rapping was something he couldn’t do. As a broke teenager still working on finding myself, it was relatable to hear songs about overcoming doubters and lyrics on topics such as materialism, family, creativity, prejudice, and religion; these were way different from the things talked about in hip-hop before then. Kanye gave a voice to the voiceless in his pink polos and helped us all believe that we didn’t have to be in a gang to be authentic. In a very surreal way, he taught us it was okay to be different, yet still made us feel less alone. You could be into rap and art, you could be into Japanese street style and designer clothes, you could listen to 50 Cent and Ray Charles. More importantly, he embraced that you could be intelligent and successful without having to go to (or finish) college. A message that came at the right time because we were about to see more and more success stories of startups and careers that were challenging the standardized path to success. Kanye was asking the same questions as a lot of us, the questions which led to a lot more individuality.

He changed his sound for 808s & Heartbreak, it was really the first album to receive criticism for being so different but it opened the door for sounds like Drake, Kid Cudi, Travis Scott, etc. and it once again shifted the sound of mainstream music into something else. He overcame the criticism and just as the sound of that album started to be more accepted, he had his infamous 2009 VMA interruption, which most people would still agree was a mistake on his part, but the public scrutiny made him buckle down and demand greatness, the hate led to 2010’s MBDTF (my favorite album of all time and if you disagree you can go listen to the Dissect podcast season about it and then come back and say it to my face) so I for one am not complaining. If you’re around my age then this was happening as we were finishing high school and starting college, and for many of us, it was once again a reflection of what was happening in our lives. If the formative years were when we were asking questions and finding ourselves, these later years were when we had somewhat of an idea of who we were and were making mistakes, but also working hard to make up for them.

By this point, I had graduated high school a year early and my job had given me the opportunity to meet a lot of my favorite celebrities, so I felt on top of the world. Kanye’s bold bravado in my two favorite albums, MBDTF and Watch The Throne, once again resonated with what I was going through in my life. (Plus let’s face it, a collab album between Kanye and Jay Z is going to be fire no matter what). Maybe it’s the nostalgia as I look back at that part of my life, but I feel like for a lot of my friends these were happy times. That part of young adulthood was loud, it was carefree, and the world was ours for the taking. Ye continued that confident sound with the collaborative GOOD Music album Cruel Summer and the famously unapologetic album Yeezus in 2012 and 2013.

In 2016 after keeping us waiting for a while he released The Life of Pablo with a Yeezy Season 3 fashion show. It was another undeniable classic, being the first streaming-only album to go platinum. In it, he first tackled his mental illness and introduced a more gospel-centric sound while once again shifting the mainstream sound to something different. I was living in Italy and took a trip up north to see the live fashion show/album release and it was one of the most fun experiences in my life. Still, there was a more grown-up sound in TLOP. Maybe it’s because I was in my twenties and working in what would become my career, maybe it’s because Kanye had a family. He was still bold and confident, but he wasn’t infallible. He had responsibilities and more vision towards the future. He knew that people missed “The Old Kanye”, but the fact that he was telling authentic stories, shifting the mainstream sound, mixing an outspoken confidence with an all too honest introspection, and doing all of this on one of the most beautifully produced albums just confirmed that it was the real Kanye we had come to know and love. Maybe the most relatable part though wasn’t just the combination of fun with an acceptance of responsibilities, but rather the way it was released. The fact that changes were made after the album dropped. It felt… adaptable. And as I was living in another country, wrapping up my apprenticeship in menswear, looking to start my career I was definitely adaptable. And so were a lot of my friends, we were learning that just like college wasn’t the only path to a career, there wasn’t only one path to professional success. People were getting married, some were getting divorced, some of us started businesses, some of us moved to new cities, we all learned to adapt to life and make the little changes here and there where we needed to.

In 2018 he released Ye and Kids See Ghosts, which opened up the conversation a lot more about his mental illness. These were not at all what people were expecting, but they started conversations that were important and maintained support from Kanye fans like myself and Seth Rogen. As for those who weren’t as supportive, he reminded them of his talent for mainstream music by producing albums for Teyana Taylor, Nas, and making Pusha T’s best album to date. I saw a difference in some of my closest friends. They didn’t take it to the extreme that Kanye did, calling his bipolar disorder his “superpower”, but I did notice that more conversations were taking place. Our generation has taken great steps to take away the stigma behind mental illness, and once again Kanye’s work was a reflection of that. Whether from the tracks themselves, from the tracklist and cover art, or just the media attention he was giving.

Which brings us to 2019. Despite promised release dates for Yandhi, Kanye switched things up and released his gospel album “Jesus is King”. It’s definitely has a gospel sound, which a lot of people are complaining about, but it’s made by Kanye who has proven time and again that he is a master of musical composition – and he’s shown it again with songs that are powerful but easy to listen to. Let’s face it, there are going to be a lot of IG captions about starting the week on Sunday and about being “my number one, with the lemonade”. Our generation questioned the status quo, sought individuality above all else, went after success in and out of college, put in work to find our voice and confidence, accepted the responsibilities of the lives we made and opened up about mental health in the world we live in. Kanye’s albums, in one way or another, reflected all of that. Now, in a generation where we consider ourselves more spiritual but less religious than ever before, Kanye is conducting Sunday Service sessions and has released a gospel album. It might seem that he missed the mark, that this is where he no longer reflects what our generation is going through, but I think that he exactly reflects what we are going through, at least for me.

A little over a year ago my father told me about a law that was going on in Spain that allowed for descendants of Sephardic Jews to reclaim their Spanish Citizenship if their ancestors were kicked out of the country. My dad is a genealogist and had our family tree done so far back that proving it was pretty straightforward, but there was more to it than that. Among other things I had to prove my cultural and religious ties, do background checks, pass a citizenship test, prove language proficiency, and more. During this time I researched more and more about this part of my family and the legacy they left behind. I was impressed that 500 years ago my ancestors lived their religion so strongly despite the persecutions it would bring. It was not the first time, and obviously wouldn’t be the last time, that Jews were persecuted for their faith. I reflected on this at a time when I was also struggling to figure out where I stood within my own religion. The hardest part about this struggle for me was the embarrassment that I felt because it was happening at this age. I grew up very active in the LDS church and even went on a two-year mission to Italy to preach the gospel. During that time I realized that I didn’t have a full testimony in every aspect of the church, but I figured the stuff I did have was enough.

Fast forward to 2018-2019 and that little belief I did have no longer felt like enough, and what made things worse was that I felt guilty about it. If you’ve been a part of a religion for your entire life, to the point of sharing that gospel with others, then it feels like you’re not allowed to have your own questions. Now I’m still figuring stuff out, still finding out what I believe, learning more about the church I grew up in, about the Jewish faith of my ancestors, about different religions and beliefs. I’m praying more frequently and fervently than ever and having deep conversations with friends from many different religions. Even now, I feel kind of silly for having doubts and questions at this point in my life, but Kanye’s album has helped with that. Not because of the message he’s preaching or the particular gospel he’s sharing, but rather because of when and how his conversion took place. He said he only recently converted to Christianity. West was raised Christian, he wore a Jesus Piece for most of his early career, I mean he made “Jesus Walks” in his debut album, so it’s safe to say he had faith… right? If this man can feel he’s recently converted in his forties, then why is it so weird for me to be figuring this stuff out in my late twenties? His search, conversion, and album prove that it’s not about how you were raised, or what “preaching” you’ve done previously, it’s about searching for your truth through a personal relationship with God. His album is good, I’m enjoying listening to it, but more than that I’m happy to know that I’m not the only person figuring this stuff out for myself. A lot of my friends have distanced themselves from their parents’ religions, but it’s because just like Kanye they are looking for their own true conversion. Whether it happens at 12 or at 42 or at 80, we just want it to be authentic. Kanye is excited to be sharing the gospel that he recently found, the way the prophets were excited to share the good word, the way I was excited to share those early Kanye albums with my friends and family. And in the end, that’s really what I am hoping to find. Whether it’s a return to Judaism, a personal relationship with Christ, or something else altogether, I want to feel that something is true for myself and feel excited about my “conversion”. I’m not in a hurry to find things out, maybe it will be in an established church, maybe it won’t, but at least now I can be a little less embarrassed about my search and know that there’s no such thing as too late.

A lot of guys have been asking me for some of the basics on menswear and styling, so I am going to be doing some short articles just to help with the basics. The main thing to keep in mind, is that the rules are meant to be broken, only when understood. Picasso was amazing as an abstract artist because he had proven himself through classical art. So you can change things up for comfort, for preference, even as direct defiance, just don’t do it because you didn’t know any better. 

Let’s start with my specialty, suits.

The most important part of a suit is the fit, which most people get wrong. You can have a cheap suit, but if it fits well it’s better than an overpriced one that fits like a potato sack, just ask the president. Once you’ve learned to get what fits you better then obviously it’s best to move up in quality so that your suits can 1-last longer and 2-function better. When you’re looking for the right fit in a suit the main thing to look for is the way it hugs your shoulders. If the suit is lying flat on the shoulders then you’re good to go, the rest of the suit can (within reason) be tailored but the shoulders have to be right. The next most important thing is the length. You want your sleeves to show about a quarter-inch of your dress shirt. More conservative gentlemen like their sleeves longer, some more flamboyant guys (particularly in Europe) like theirs shorter to show off their watch and bracelets. As with most parts of a suit, it’s about preference and personality. The same goes for the trousers, more conservative gentlemen like a full break, trendy hipster guys like no break to show off their colorful socks. My preference is a light break, I want you to see my socks or ankles when I’m sitting but not when I’m just standing around.

Here are a few rules that might seem basic, but I’ve seen plenty of people break so I’m gonna help you out here. Take the label off the sleeve, open up the pockets, remove the stitching on the lapels/cuffs/back vents. So these don’t apply to my suits since I make them custom, but when big companies are shipping their RTW suits they leave some things closed to help them keep their shape. Once you’ve purchased it though it’s best to free your suit of the contrasting white stitching because if you get called out on it you look like you were planning on wearing and returning the suit, even if that’s not the case. 

Don’ button the bottom button. This one is pretty straightforward but a lot of people never learn it. Are there exceptions to this rule? Sure, just like with any. I like to only button the bottom of a double-breasted jacket to give the lapel a deeper roll. But that’s something 99% of guys will never consider or have a suit that does, so just don’t button your bottom button. 

The two out of three pattern rule: Patterns are amazing, they add depth to menswear which is important because we don’t get to play with the silhouette as much as women do. Whether you’re into plaids, stripes, checks, polka dots, paisleys, or anything else, patterns serve as a way for men to express their individuality. A lot of phrases get thrown around, like not mixing dots and stripes. My rule is much more simple. Only have patterns on two of the three items. If you want to really play it safe you can let only one of the patterns be “loud”. So you can have a bold pattern on your suit, a toned-down pattern on your tie, and a solid shirt. Or a solid suit, a soft pattern on the shirt, and a bold pattern on the tie or pocket square, etc. 

Avoid trends: Don’t be afraid to look like a grown-up. It’s a suit, it’s a classic piece of timeless luxury. You can wear it to work or you can wear it to a wedding. If you stop and think about it your suits should be a part of who you are more than just your current age. When you’re 65 and retiring from being CEO of a billion-dollar company you don’t want to look back and see your pictures where your suit fits like a pair of black skinny jeans. I work with a lot of pro athletes and often they think they know what they want. In a few years once they’ve traveled more or moved to Europe they start asking for the things I suggested but they were scared to try. Pleats on the trousers, wider lapels, cuffs on the pants, lighter colors, suspender buttons, etc. 
There’s nothing wrong with the skinny fit of a trendy suit IF it compliments your body. Don’t get caught up in the fads only to look back in 30 years and realize they weren’t doing you any favors.

Consistency is key, so here’s how to dress for your body

Skinny ties were cool. I’m not talking about the mid-2000s, I mean over 50 years ago when the Beatles and the Rat Pack would sometimes wear skinny ties. They picked up again about 15 years ago and they’ve stayed a viable option, but it’s important to know that they aren’t for everyone or for every suit. I’m a big guy, I have pretty broad shoulders, and so a skinny tie can lead to a lot of white space, too much of my shirt showing makes me look like Chris Farley “big guy in a little jacket”. Wide suit lapels accent my frame better which is what a suit should do, and those wider lapels look better with wider ties. The rule of thumb here is to try to match your lapel width, with your shirt collar size, and your tie width. If you are a slender guy then narrow lapels, with a shorter collar and a skinny tie will look great on you. Look at Ben here, broad shoulders look great in wide lapels and a classic width tie.  

I first got this pair of Taft boots over three years ago and when I first typed that out I had to double check to make sure it was the case. As many of you know, I’ve been testing different boots from all over the world. I had a friend ask about these, well when you wear Taft you’re bound to get lots of questions but she specifically asked how they hold up performance-wise, and that’s when I decided I’d write a quick review. 

There is so much to say about Taft, but they’re a big name now so you might know it and if not you can find it online. They’re an awesome company, started in Utah by my friend Kory, and use some of the most talented and sweetest artisans to handmake their boots in Spain. What I’m gonna focus on though, is my personal experience with them. 

On May 21st, 2016 I swung by the Taft warehouse to have a chat with Kory and pick up a pair of boots. I was excited about the possibility of a pair of boots that stood out a bit. Taft was doing something called Taft30 in which a few menswear aficionados were testing out a pair of shoes for 30 days straight. That might not sound like a lot of fun if you’re breaking in a pair of shoes, but they were pretty comfy from the jump. At the time I had had a pair of shoes made in Italy and a bespoke pair of boots made in Mexico, and both of those required a bit more time to break in and be comfortable, so the initial comfort was a pleasant surprise.

My life is all over the place, so my Taft30 was going to be a little more exciting than 30 days of wearing the same shoes to an office job. Day one was Topgolf and then going Latin dancing with some friends, so a more active start than what you’d normally do in a brand new pair. Over those first 30 days, I would end up taking trips to LA, Mexico, and a mini road trip to Texas. I wore the boots when I hiked Rustic Canyon outside of L.A. and when I dressed up for business meetings. They were comfy, they were stylish, they were bold, so as far as I was concerned they had proved themselves with the #Taft30 challenge… but it didn’t stop there. 2016 is the year I moved to New York, so they were with me for the day to day of city life, they went with me to fashion week in Italy, and I wore them on our first shoot when we started the brand Giorgio Verdi. 

Even though I don’t wear them every single day, they’ve become a staple in my wardrobe. I got them shined on the street in Mexico City in 2017 and the guy made the leather a lighter color(I was salty at first but grew to love that now they’re even more unique), the rubber soles are also pretty worn but still solid. With the right love and care is pair could pass for new. Most boots these days don’t make it to 3 years, definitely not looking this great once they do. I’ve replaced the laces a few times, but it’s honestly a pretty great feeling to know your shoes are outliving the shoelaces that way. When they need it I can re-sole them, and for now, I can just continue loving them and traveling in them just like I have the last few years. 

Original Penguin sent me a pair of Chukka boots.

ABOUT

Chukka boots (named for the polo term) are an ankle height boot characterized by two-three eyelets and open lacing. They are a more casual option, traditionally in suede with crepe soles. This pair is a little bit more rugged than that with the full grain leather upper and a stacked heel. In my opinion, a good pair of chukka boots is the ultimate piece for dressing up casual looks.

THE LOOK

A chukka boot is one of the most versatile options available for footwear. Its low height makes it easier to dress up or down. Traditional pairs of chukka boots follow this scale.

The thick rubber sole on these, as well as the bold stitching, really make them a less formal option, and their weight and thickness make them not so super-casual. I could wear them when wearing a jacket and tie, but not necessarily a suit unless I wanted some extra attention. The blue and red detailing do make them extremely versatile, as well as the fact that they’re black but have brown wood and rubber in the sole. They’ll blend together with any outfit that has red, blue, black, or brown – which is pretty much anything.

The best use for them is to look stylish and “dressed up” when keeping things casual. Everyone likes a good pair of boots and the chukka is a good way to keep that look going without looking ridiculous in the spring/summer months.

THE FEEL

Although traditionally Chukka boots are unlined, these have an elegant and comfortable lining on the interior which makes this shoe feel a bit more luxurious than it actually is. It’s definitely heavier than an old school chukka but doesn’t feel overly bulky. It’s right where you’d expect, not as lightweight as wearing your NIKE sneakers, but not as heavy as a pair of Wolverine or Taft boots.

THE VERDICT – They’re a cheap grab if you’re experimenting.

These are great if you’re trying to add more versatility to your wardrobe and pushing your boundaries. At less $200 and with a rubber sole they’re not exactly an investment piece but one that you can get as you try to work your way into adding boots regularly to your wardrobe. 

A good pair of stylish boots will set you back $600-$1,500 

Even a bargain brand like Taft(one of my favorites) retails for $250 – $350

My advice? Grab them if you love them (plus I think they’re on sale now). It’s a unique design and I love the versatility of the red and blue accents. If you’re on the fence or prefer a lighter shoe in an all black look then you might be in better luck with this pair from Thursday Boots.

Either one of these pairs would be a good stepping stone towards better style, if you you see yourself wearing them often then it’ll be easier to spend $300-$1,000 for a good pair of boots and in the meantime you’ll have a cheap way to upgrade your wardrobe. 

Sprezzatura is an Italian word, the most accurate definition is “I-don’t-give-a-fuck-ness”. If you prefer to keep it G rated I guess you could define it as an effortless elegance, a nonchalance to one’s style, but that’s not quite right either. Because it’s not just effortless, although if you do it right that’s how it comes across. More than not caring, it’s a conscious rebellion, a defiance to society, a middle finger to all the rules.

The most famous example of this in the world of menswear is Gianni Agnelli, the famous “avvocato” who ran Fiat and exemplified Italian style in a way that no one else could ever do(There’s a documentary on him on HBO which I recommend). He was known for wearing the tail (skinny side of his tie) longer than the blade (front/wide part of the tie). This is something I do regularly for a couple of reasons.

First, it’s a salute for those who know. From the outside looking in it might seem silly, but if I ever see a man who is well dressed and keeps the tail end longer I just know he deeply understands and appreciates Italian style.
Second, it’s a statement for those who don’t. If I’m giving and receiving a “nod” from those who recognize this particular style choice, then what about the rest of the world – those who could see this as just a mistake. This is where the talent comes in, in making sure that your sprezzatura is done just right. I had an experience while I was living in New York that highlights this. I was riding on the A in a suit and a couple was looking at me, the young man leaned forward and said: “Hey the back of your tie is really long and outside of the loop”. Before I had the chance to thank him and explain that it was a choice the girl gently smacked his arm and said, “I think he knows, he doesn’t look like any of his outfit is on accident”. This put a huge smile on my face and we had a little conversation about it. The key to adding personality to your style is for the rest of your outfit to be so put together that it’s obvious (to most) that what you’re doing is intentional.

Doing it right

There are other ways to add sprezzatura to your outfit. Another of my favorites is leaving the buttons undone on a button-down collar. Wearing clip-on suspenders. Wearing sneakers or a t-shirt with a suit. Wearing your watch on the outside of your shirt sleeve(another Gianni Agnelli signature). If you think about it even the act of wearing a suit without a tie is a certain form of rebellion, it just happens to be one that is more widely accepted today. The key is to break a rule of traditional menswear in a way that looks intentional and stylish. As my mentor told me when I got my first suit in Italy, “choose your suit intentionally, put it on as though it costs millions, then wear it like a t-shirt”. It is important, as with every time you get dressed, to look and feel comfortable and confident. If you’re a cause for conversation, then you’re doing something right. Traditional menswear enthusiasts will scoff at clip-on suspenders, in fact, many did in this picture of Simone Righi, but it doesn’t change the fact that he looks stylish and put together. Say what you want, he looks good and doesn’t care what you think.

Doing it wrong

The fear in doing something like this lies in doing it wrong, and that’s a perfectly reasonable one to have. You don’t want to come off like a slob, and you also don’t want to come off as someone trying too hard, so how do you walk that fine line? What are the mistakes to avoid? First and foremost a big mistake is doing too much. In order for one choice to not look messy, the rest of you needs to be consistently well dressed. Second, don’t break a rule that you think looks bad – you maybe thinking, “well I think that stupid tie thing looks bad so what about that?” – if that’s the case then it should go without saying that you should not be doing that. For example, I don’t like, and so would never wear, an untucked shirt with a suit/jacket. It’s not that it’s a bad look, and if you don’t wear your jacket a lot I can understand why you might want to do this and avoid creases from tucking and untucking your shirt, but it’s not something that would come naturally to me.

So why am I telling you this? Well, many of you come to me for menswear advice and a few have even asked why I do certain things that seem off for such a menswear lover. The truth is that this goes into more than just menswear, it’s a way of life that extends into most aspects. If you’re going to break a rule or two, you have to make sure you balance it out with order. Think of a guy in a tuxedo with his bowtie undone. We all picture a James Bond type, and it works because the rest of the outfit is neat and proper. But what if the pants were too baggy, the jacket didn’t fit well, the shirt was an unflattering cheap rental, and the wearer was sweaty, dirty, and out of breath? Instead of the hero who is unwinding after an elegant night, the visual changes into a slob that doesn’t belong at a black-tie event. So right now that volt colored apparel and tie-dye hoodies are in trend, the way to pull them off in your casual attire is to use them as accents with otherwise understated styles. Think Will in The Fresh Prince, he wore his jacket inside out to reflect his personality, but with grey trousers and a shirt and tie to keep from looking like a total clown.

via GIPHY

At the end of the day, learn the rules so that you can bend them as you find ways to insert your personality into everything you do. From your outfits, to the way you decorate your home and office, and it’ll begin to affect the way you speak and act. As long as it’s authentic you won’t look like you’re trying too hard but also won’t look like a mistake, and that’s when it’ll look good.

Is this the shopping app all men need to download?

Being a lover of menswear and growing up with deep roots in streetwear, shopping is a complicated process for me. I still want dope streetwear and admittedly still follow the hype sometimes (if the product is well executed), but more often than not I still look for the things I looked for growing up. What’s a super dope product that isn’t gonna be worn by everyone and their mom? What are the brands that are putting out quality and have a good story or mission? The right fit can absolutely change your attitude, and whether it’s a suit or a hoodie I love the feeling of going out wearing something I love. It’s even better when I get asked about it and get to flex a bit. 

I love streetwear, like a deep passion that I love to pursue. Still, even I don’t have time to look through brands and products to find what’s fresh and not EVERYWHERE. Even worse, sometimes I’ll find a brand that I fuck with heavily but then retailers will only carry a handful of items from their collections. 

Enter Jake Woolf. 

My first introduction to Jake Woolf was as an author at GQ. GQ isn’t the deepest dive into menswear but for me, it’s the most influential and is the backbone for all menswear literature. Sure, it’s more than a style magazine, for years Jim Nelson’s political pieces gave me insight and depth on topics I was unfamiliar with. Still, for me, GQ has first and foremost been a publication about how to be stylish. My three favorite contributors are Mark Anthony Green (The Style Guy), Angelo Flaccavento back when he wrote style articles for GQ Italia, and Jake Woolf who was an expert on topics like high-end streetwear and sneakers. Last year Woolf left GQ and teamed up with Justin Hruska and Nate Brown to launch SEAM. 

Seam is an app that carries some of the best brands you know, and some you’ve never heard of. They have brands I love like BILLY LA and Public School but also introduced me to some like Satisfy Running and Dertbag. 

Their own SEAM products are also dope streetwear and they’ll soon carry A.P.C. which is a huge deal. 

SEAM does a daily drop, so every day users have the chance to win a totally free product. They write and publish excellent articles that educate and inspire in their “Stories” section. And maybe most importantly, they find the brands that I wish I had the time to find myself. At the end of the day this app is an essential for the well dressed man to nail casual looks and learn something along the way. Stop paying resale for Supreme box logos and start having real style again. 

Download SEAM here: and use my referral code GC005560

Robert Wayne sent me a pair of shoes.

THE LOOK

We looked over different options and decided on their Dary in black, it seemed like a good option as a clean black sneaker that would be easy to dress up or down. At only $100 it seemed like a steal. A simple sneaker is one of the best ways to add a casual and comfortable vibe to a suit. It’s often done with white sneakers, the best ones to use are Stan Smiths or Louis Vuitton Luxembourg Sneaker. While white is more versatile, I was stoked about a black leather sneaker that would compliment some of my bolder suits and add class to my look when I’m wearing jeans.

THE FEEL

While I love the thought of a simple leather sneaker, I’m not a fan of the execution. The inside of the shoe made of suede, which while it sounds like a dope and luxurious concept, it is more of an inconvenience than anything. The naps (the protein fibers that give suede that rough texture) make it so there is a lot of friction when you try to slide the shoes on. This complicated a sneaker that is supposed to be simple and elegant. I gave it a few tries, thinking that maybe it gets better as you break it in, or that it could be a shoe that worked better without socks… but to no avail. The simplicity of the sneaker is lost when you factor in that it takes minutes rather than seconds to put on and is almost impossible to adjust the tightness on. 

THE VERDICT

If a pair happens to fall into your lap, it’s still a clean looking sneaker. Easily paired with jeans or a suit, but not worth the effort or the discomfort. If you’re wanting to get a clean black pair of sneakers for a price this low, which I recommend so that you can show off a bold pair of socks, then I’d suggest sticking with the tried and true Stan Smiths. 

Photos by: Alexender Simoes

All over social media posts are going up about the legend, the genius, the great Karl Lagerfeld. Being Giorgio Cuellar, maybe my feed has seen more of it since most of my friends and connections are in the fashion industry, but everyone from Supreme to Rihanna has also posted to pay their respect and express their admiration.

That makes sense, any time someone passes it seems natural for those close to them to reflect and share — it helps with the grieving. It also makes sense for people like me, who work in the fashion industry and therefore have directly studied and admired Karl and his work for years. But what about for you? What about those who are anti-fashion and don’t give a shit about high-end designers? What about the working class that can’t afford Chanel or Fendi and wouldn’t spend their money on that even if they could? Why should they care about the passing of Karl Lagerfeld?

Because at the end of the day, he was just like them.

Karl is someone who didn’t take what he did too seriously, which is crazy to think about because of how seriously he was taken by the world. When compared to an artist he said designers weren’t artists and shouldn’t consider themselves as such. Hal Rubenstein recalls Karl saying, “ Designing clothes is working class. I am working class. Designing as an art is so contrived. It is not my job to express the pain and suffering of the world in taffeta”. And he’s right, designing is to help people look and feel their best, while artists have the responsibility to reveal the truth they see, the good and the bad.

Karl also famously took inspiration from real life and transformed it into incredible collections. And while his real life certainly could have been much more luxurious than most, that wasn’t what he focused on. An avid reader (in four languages) he preferred to read about places and then later if he traveled there to compare them to how he imagined them, seeing if they lived up to what he cooked up in his head. As someone who has traveled a bit, but read even more, I can relate to finding inspiration from a combination of articles, books, and my imagination. While some of the runway shows had rockets, or were on The Great Wall of China or the Trevi Fountain, some of his most famous shows were a barnyard, an airport terminal, or the legendary Chanel Supermarket.

He was the first to do a high-end collaboration with H&M and called them out for a limited release which sold out in minutes. That’s a man who understands that not everyone can afford Chanel or Fendi prices but wants Lagerfeld designs. His collaboration, by the way, made future collaborations like Versace, Balmain, and Kenzo possible and disrupted the fashion industry as a whole. He’s the reason you can get designer collaborative pieces not just at H&M but at places like Target. Not only did he disrupt price points but with expensive brands like Chanel, he changed the styles from something reserved for wealthy housewives to looks that everyone could wear. His collections referenced climate change as well as modern feminism. His show on the Great Wall was very inclusive of Chinese models. While not taking himself too seriously he still did serious good with his life’s work.

Karl was just a man who loved what he did, he loved it so much that he moved to Paris as a teenager and defied all odds by becoming successful despite not fashion or art school education. He loved it so much that he kept a sketchpad by his bed and was constantly working. He loved what he did to the point that he was the creative director for two enormous fashion houses while also building his own brand and working as a fashion photographer. Yes, he dressed in a way that seemed standoffish, but it was a gate to keep out the masses. Those who got through that barrier have all talked about how open and kind he was. He wouldn’t stop working, but he would have people sit next to him and talk while he kept sketching and designing.

Was he rich? Of course, but who wouldn’t be if they were considered a genius in their field and worked the equivalent of four full-time jobs? Was he cold? German and Parisian cultures are both considered “cold” compared to others, but everyone who got to know him praised him for his kindness. If anything he was just a private and witty man who kept himself so busy that he was selective with who got to know him at that level. Does his cat fly in a private jet? Okay, that’s a little harder to relate to, but really who doesn’t provide the very best they can for the ones they love?

Karl was a man who loved extra hard, whether we’re talking about love for his work, his friends, or his cat. He was a man who picked a few things he couldn’t live without and worked his absolute hardest at them. He was someone who remembered where he came from and appreciated where he was. Like any man, he was imperfect, but he was great. And whether you’re a banker, a mechanic, a boxer, or a designer — isn’t that greatness what we all strive for?

First and foremost I want it to be clear that I am rooting for Virgil Abloh. I think most of the world is at this point, but for someone who came up in the streetwear scene and then made the transition into luxury menswear, it’s awesome seeing such a talented streetwear designer be given that opportunity at LV.

In March when it was first announced that Virgil would be Artistic Director of Menswear at LV I’ll admit I was concerned. It’s not that I doubt him in any way, he’s definitely proven himself in his other endeavors. Rather, I was worried that it would be similar to the Brioni situation of 2016. For those who aren’t aware, in March 2016 Brioni (A luxury suit brand) named Justin O’Shea as it’s Creative Director. Justin is a very talented guy and was doing great as the global fashion director of MyTheresa.com. It was a bold move, but one that could have helped Brioni reach a broader audience if it had worked, unfortunately, it only lasted six months before Brioni decided it wasn’t a good fit. Some blamed O’Shea’s lack of design experience for the split, others on his experience being mostly in womenswear. Personally, I don’t think either of these is to blame. O’Shea came in as the creative director which I consider more of a curator, and design experience or not, it’s undeniable that he has a great eye for style. So what was the problem? His style was too different from what Brioni stands for. When I think of Brioni I think of Brosnan in his Bond movies, that’s a far cry from Metallica, which O’Shea hired as the face of Brioni’s ads. He moved too far away from the established client and didn’t do enough to obtain a new one. So why is this important two years later? Just like O’Shea, Virgil is very talented but is very different from what LV has traditionally stood for. Running a luxury brand is very different from running a fashion brand. Still, I believe Virgil will do great things, and in my opinion, he’s shown that today during the Men’s SS 19 runway show.

Last year the LV Men’s SS collection had a lot of navy, black, grey, forest green, and brown. A couple red Hawaiian shirts but nothing too loud or bold out there. It was what we had come to expect from Louis Vuitton, a sort of sleek and futuristic feel that looks expensive but borders trendy.

Virgil took things in a very different direction. This year Virgil embraced color, “Color as a metaphor addresses the literal context of the figurative” was on LV’s Insta story. The runway show started with all white, for a clean and modern look on the rainbow runway. It’s important to keep in mind that most runway looks are exaggerated and that pieces typically look better when separated and combined to a personal look. I can already picture the IG posts of an all white bag at the airport, and honestly, I love it.

He goes on to introduce more color. Some all white outfits with red details, or electric lime shoelaces, then brown pieces which once again have accents in white or bright lime. LV took a cue from their Supreme collab and put out some beautiful pieces in red, which complimented the brown very well- In my opinion, this combination felt like the perfect metaphor of this show. The brown showing LV’s heritage and craftsmanship while the red reminded me of Virgil’s ambitious yet effective voice.

Before long there were loud statement pieces being worn, multicolored jackets, even e pretty dope Wizard of Oz sweater with the characters blacked out.

Kid Cudi walked in a coat with super wide lapels over a muted seafoam hoodie, it was one of my favorite looks. Plus how dope to be on the runway for LV and then one of your songs with Kanye starts playing. Cudi’s wide lapels weren’t the only time they played with the silhouette, like the super creative border on this piece. Another great example is the use of thick chains on many of the bags.

Of course, the blacks and the florals are going to do very well and are probably among the most versatile pieces in the collection.

In my opinion, Virgil really brought it today. He’s a big enough name and LV is a big enough name that they would be able to survive a Brioni level misstep, but luckily that was not the case here today. He brought out some heavy hitters and it worked. While not every piece is for me, there is a lot of great stuff here. Plus I saw a lot of Double Breasted suits and I’m all about that. At the end of the day, the LV men’s department relies pretty heavily on their shoes and accessories, the bags here were dope, Virgil’s proven himself with shoes, and I’m excited that he’s bringing back the millionaire sunglasses. I love that rather than play it safe and stick to something usual while making money off of the accessories, Virgil really pushed the envelope with the clothing and brought in some clean looks. I for one am moved, and not just for the way he walked directly to Kanye and hugged him, but because of what this means for Virgil, for LV, and for the world as menswear and streetwear come closer together.

You can watch the runway show yourself here.

When I first got into designing I was focusing on streetwear. I’d stay up late working on design projects, I would often play interviews and documentaries in the background about icons in my industry. As I’ve grown and expanded my creative portfolio I’ve also expanded my sources of inspiration. Now I love listening to artists of different mediums discussing their creative process and the way they overcome certain obstacles. This can be anything from the director’s commentary on a movie to the inspiration behind a sculpture or soundtrack. I find that these stimulate the right side of the brain in a way that boosts creativity, while being different enough to leave room for genuine original ideas. A few weeks ago, Netflix added a new show called Abstract. It’s a series of mini-documentaries on some of the most talented artists of today. Some of these artists are seen as controversial, some are mainstream, they vary from architects and stage designers to footwear designers and illustrators. My favorite common thread is that they discuss some of the obstacles they had to overcome, but without dwelling on them. Situations that at the time must have felt like gargantuan problems are discussed as nothing more than the setting for these talented minds to grow; and in many cases those same difficulties are what defined these artists.

Platon traveled back home to Greece to reconnect after he was sure he would lose his job, his work there defined his aesthetic and ultimately is what caught the attention of his next project and strengthened his career. Es Devlin worked in a tiny theatre with nearly no budget as a stage designer, her creativity and tenacity forced her to think outside of the box with her work. It’s her ability to think outside of the box that has now given her budgets of millions and the freedom to call the shots as she works with celebrities around the world. I was motivated by architect Bjarke Ingels, he recognized that Danish culture had a hard time accepting differences within their own land, which pushed him to work on projects abroad and ultimately become an inspiration and source of pride to his people. I don’t know what point of despair a photographer needs to reach in order to feel moved to travel and find himself. I can’t imagine the countless nights Es worked on productions that seemed impossible without the size and budget of other theaters. I also try to imagine the fear an architect faces when taking on their first project abroad, without the safety net of a large number of works in his own country. But none of these craftsmen complained or dwelled on these situations. They didn’t sulk. They didn’t complain. These hardships were just a circumstance, one of many in their careers.

I’ve been blessed enough to work on large projects with adequate funding and resources. I’ve also bootstrapped passion projects that had virtually no support. In either case, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed when trying to realize a project that fulfills creative potential. As great as this show is there are only a handful of episodes out right now. Check out the show, watch documentaries online, and most importantly get in touch with your friends and learn about their crafts and businesses. Some of the best conversations I’ve had have come from grabbing a bite with musician friends suffering from writer’s block and just opening up about what we’re working on (or trying to work on). Learn from those that have come before you, and get inspired by your contemporaries. Like I always say, collaboration over competition.